Batch #15 - CFNA No-Fail Ale! (All-Grain)

This all-grain wheat beer is for my Crossfit North Alpharetta workout buddies.  It is a take-off on "Ryan's Wheat Revenge".  It is NOT Paleo, organic, vegan or low-calorie.  Enjoy... you deserve it. ;-)

Ingredients:

5 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt

4 lbs. White Wheat Malt

8 oz. Cara-Pils/Dextrine

8 oz. CaraVienne

8 oz. Rice Hulls (to help establish the grain bed since wheat tends to be more sticky that 2-Row, etc.)

1 oz. Sterling Hops (45 minute boil)

1 oz. Palisade Hops (last 2 minutes of boil)

1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient

1 tablespoon  5.2 pH mash stabilizer

1 pkg. American Wheat Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1010)

5 oz. Corn Sugar or approximately 2/3 cup

9 gallons of drinking water (added .5 gallon to compensate for the added rice hulls)

Process:

1. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
2. Prepare your strike water by heating 13 quarts of water or 3.25 gallons (1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  I heated the water to 169 degrees and this seemed to hit the target for mashing.
3. Add about 4 quarts of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
4. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water.  Mash temp maintained about 153 degree throughout the hour.
5. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add pH stabilizer and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
6. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5 gallons of water to a temperature of 170 degrees.
7. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
8. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.    Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 2-5 times until the runnings are free of debris and running relatively clear.
9. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
10. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain be as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
11. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6.5 - 7 gallons of beer or a measured pre-boil specific gravity of 1.048.
12. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
13. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Sterling hops for bittering and boil for 45 minutes.
14. Add the wort chiller to the boil during the last 15 minutes to sterilize.
15. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water.
16. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of remaining Palisade hops.
17. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
18. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target SG is approximately 1.048 (according to BrewSmith software).
19. Estimated post-boil volume is 5.98 gallons.  Optional - add water to achieve target SG.  Ended up with less than 5 gallons in carboy after boil.  Should have been more but still seemed to hit target OG.  Not sure what, if any, affect this will have on the finished product.
20. Transfer to fermentation carboy.  I strained this batch to reduce trub.  Make sure you have the volume you are aiming for and if it is off then consider adding top-off water.
21. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
22. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings.
23. Optional - Transfer to secondary fermentation carboy for clarifying.
24. Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 5 oz. (approximately 2/3 cup) of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch.  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.  My last batch was over-carbonated so I am reducing the amount of sugar in this step to approximately 4 oz.

Notes, Results and Lessons Learned:

• Brew Day - March 10, 2013
• Kegging Day - April 9, 2013 (30 days in Primary, no Secondary)
• OG - 1.050
• FG - 1.012
• ABV - 5%
• Notes:
• Fermentation on this batch went CRAZY!  It was a good thing I attached a blow-off tube since so much of the krausen overflowed into the water-filled growler.  After pitching the yeast I shook the carboy for about 1 minute and then infused pure oxygen for 30 seconds.
• I am going to keg this batch.  It will be my first kegging attempt.

The Verdict:

• The keg didn't last long at the party so I'd say it was a success.

Batch #14 - Triple C/J IPA (All-grain)

This brew is a rewind back to batch #10 which I think is probably the best one I've made so far.  My fiancee's son and a friend of his wanted to learn the process so I thought this one would be worth a revisit.  They both like hoppy beer so I thought this one was worth of a re-do.

Ingredients:

10 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt

12 oz. Cara 8/Caramel Pils

8 oz. Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L

1 oz. Chinook Hops (60 minutes)

1 oz. Chinook Hops (15 minutes)

1 oz. Cascade Hops (2 minutes)

1 oz. Citra Hops (Dry Hopping)

1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient
1 Whirfloc tablet

1 tbsp 5.2 pH mash stabilizer

1 pkg. American Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1056)

4 oz. Corn Sugar

8.5 gallons of drinking water
20 lbs. ice (for chilling wort)

Process:

1. Optional - Prepare a yeast starter at least 24 hours in advance of brew day.  This isn't really necessary since the ABV for this batch will be around 6.5%.
2. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
3. Prepare your strike water by heating 14 quarts of water or 3.5 gallons (1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  Aim for 169 degrees.
4. Add about 4 quarts of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
5. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water.
6. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add 1 tablespoon of pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
7. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5 gallons of water to a temperature of 170 degrees.
8. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
9. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.    Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 5 or more times until the runnings are free of grain debris and running relatively clear.
10. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
11. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
12. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 7 gallons of beer.
13. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
14. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Chinook hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
15. With 15 minutes left in the boil add:
1. Whirfloc tablet.
2. 1 oz. of Chinook hops.
3. Wort chiller to the boil to sterilize.
16. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water.
17. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of Cascade hops.
18. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
19. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target SG is approximately 1.059.
20. Estimated post-boil volume is 6 gallons.
21. Transfer to fermentation carboy.  Strain if desired.
22. Optional - add boiled water to achieve desired volume.
23. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
24. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 3 weeks).
25. After 2 weeks of fermentation, add 1 oz. of Citra hops for the dry hopping process.  Let these hops age in the primary fermenter for 7-10 days.
26. Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 4 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch.  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.

Notes, Results and Lessons Learned:

• Brew Day - February 10, 2013
• Bottling Day - March 9, 2013 (27 days total fermentation)
• Tasting Day - March 17, 2013 (8 days in the bottle)
• OG - 1.060
• FG - 1.020 (This should have been closer to 1.011.  Bottled to early? Stuck fermentation?)
• ABV - 5.25%
• Notes:
• I didn't dissolve the yeast nutrient in warm water before pitching it into the wort. I doubt this will be an issue but wanted to note it.
• I increased pre-boil wort volume from 6.5 gallons to 7 gallons.  This seemed to produce the right amount of post-boil wort to generate the desired 6 gallons of fermentable wort.
• Added 1 oz. of Citra hops for dry hopping on February 24, 2013 (two weeks into fermentation).  Dry hopped until March 9, 2013 (13 days).
• I expected the FG to be closer to 1.010.  I hope I don't have any bottle bombs!
• Consider a yeast starter next time or letting the fermentation go longer.  If so, agitate to keep the yeast going. 

The Verdict:

• I went ahead and popped the top on this one a little earlier than I normally would have (only 8 days in the bottle) and it was plenty carbonated.  My thought was that since it most likely didn't finish fermenting as far as it could have there was plenty of sugar left for bottle conditioning.  My hunch was right in that it was perfectly carbonated.  I decided to refrigerate some to stop them from carbonating further.
• So how did it turn out?  Very good!  Beautiful aroma and smooth taste.  One of my best.  Plus, Jordan liked it - ;-)

Batch #13 - ROI-L Honey Ale (All-grain)

Batch #13 is a Honey Ale produced with my Uncle Jim's raw South Carolina-harvested honey.  This batch should be an easy-drinking and refreshing ale with a mild honey aftertaste.  The sweetness of the honey and honey malt should be counterbalanced with classic Cascade hops which tend to impart a citrus and floral aroma but with a "clean" bitterness.  The Falconer's Flight hops (in honor of my dad, a falconer & bee keeper too) should lend a distinct floral and citrus bouquet aroma to the finished beer.

Ingredients:

Uncle Jim hard at work!

• 5.75 lbs. Domestic 2-row Pale Malt
• 2 lbs. ROI L Honey (from my Uncle Jim the beekeeper)
• 8 oz. of Cara-Pils/Dextrine
• 4 oz. of Honey Malt
• 1 oz. of Cascade Hops (60 minutes)
• 1 oz. of Falconer's Flight Hops (2 minutes)
• 1 tablespoon of PH 5.2 Mash Stabilizer
• 1/2 teaspoon of Yeast Nutrient
• 1 pkg. of American Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1056)
• 1 Whirfloc tablet for clarifying
• 5 oz. of corn sugar for bottling (adds carbonation)
• 6.5 gallons of drinking water (double filtered at home)
• 20 lb. bag of ice (for quick cooling of wort)

Process (for all-grain batch sparging):

1. Optional  - Prepare a yeast starter at least 24 hours in advance of brew day.
2. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
3. Prepare your strike water by heating  approximately 8 quarts of water (8.125 to be exact) or 2 gallons (or approximately 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees (10-18 degrees above target temperature to account for temp loss when added to grains).  Aim for 169 degrees.
4. Add all of of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
5. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water. 
6. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
7. Prepare your sparge water by heating about 4.5 gallons of water (typically 1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain but increasing since honey is being utilized and is not added until later) to a temperature of 170 degrees.  Be careful not to go over this temperature as tannins can be leached.
8. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
9. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.    Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 2-5 times until the runnings are free of debris and running relatively clear.
10. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
11. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
12. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6 gallons of beer.
13. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
14. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Cascade hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
15. With 15 minutes left in the boil add Whirfloc tablet and wort chiller (to sanitize).
16. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of Falconer's Flight hops.
17. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water. 
18. Terminate boil and add the 2 lbs. of honey stirring until dissolved.
19. Chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
20. Take a specific gravity reading and record.
21. Estimated post-boil volume is 5.2 gallons.  Optional - add water to achieve target SG.
22. Transfer to fermentation carboy by siphon.  Strain if desired.
23. Optional - add water to achieve desired volume of 5 gallons.
24. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
25. Attach blow-off tube or airlock and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 3 weeks).



My dad - he's awesome!!

26. Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 3.9 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch.  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle. 

Notes, Results and Lessons Learned:

• Brew Day - September 29, 2012
• Bottling Day - October 23, 2012 (24 days in Primary, no Secondary fermentation)
• Notes:
• Had to sub Citra hops for Falconer's Flight since my local homebrew supply store was out.
• This beer (on bottling day) turned out exceptionally clear.

That is some clear beer!

The Verdict:

• Time will tell... Taste test will occur the first part of November 2012.  Stay tuned.
• So tasting day has come and gone and while I had high hopes for this beer it didn't turn out quite as I hoped.  It wasn't bad but just didn't have that honey taste I had hoped.  The more I have read about ales utilizing honey the more I have learned how tough it is to keep the honey influence in tact.  For the most part, the honey is treated like any other sugar during the process and consumed by the yeast for food.  What is left behind is not always what we expect.  In any case, it was yet another learning experience.  The beer will not go to waste...

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Batch #12 - Liberty Cream Ale (All-grain)

This batch is a copy of Midwest Supplies' Liberty Cream Ale.  Their description is "A perfect Ale for those who enjoy a lighter bodied beer. A refreshing and easy to brew, light Cream Ale. A real crowd pleaser for all tastes..."  I wanted to brew something up that I could easily share with my friends so hopefully this will be the ticket.  In case you are wondering, "What makes it a cream ale?"  This is debatable but most brewers agree that the common denominator is that the grain bill must contain corn.

Ingredients:

• 7 lbs. of Domestic 2-row Pale Malt
• 2 lbs. of Flaked Corn
• 8 oz. of Carapils
• 1 oz. Cascade Hops (60 minutes)
• 1 oz. Cascade Hops (2 minutes)
• 1 tbsp. PH 5.2 Mash Stabilizer
• 1 Whirfloc Tablet for clarification
• 1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient
• 1 pkg. American Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1056)
• 5 oz. Corn Sugar
• 8.5 Gallons of Water
• 20 lb. Bag of Ice

Process (for all-grain batch sparging):

1. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
2. Prepare your strike water by heating 12 quarts of water or 3 gallons (or approximately 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees (10-18 degrees above target temperature to account for temp loss when added to grains).  Aim for 179 degrees.
3. Add about 4 quarts of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
4. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water. 
5. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
6. Prepare your sparge water by heating 4.75 gallons of water (1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 170 degrees.  Be careful not to go over this temperature as tannins can be leached.
7. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
8. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.    Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 2-5 times until the runnings are free of debris and running relatively clear.
9. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
10. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
11. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6.5 gallons of beer.
12. Return brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
13. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Cascade hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
14. With 15 minutes left in the boil add Whirfloc tablet and wort chiller (to sanitize).
15. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water. 
16. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of Cascade hops.
17. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
18. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target is 1.042-1.046
19. Estimated post-boil volume is 5.5 to 6 gallons.  Optional - add water to achieve target SG.
20. Transfer to fermentation carboy by siphon.  Strain if desired.
21. Optional - add water to achieve desired volume.
22. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
23. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 2-3 weeks).
24. Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 3.9 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch.  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.

Notes, Results and Lessons Learned:

• Brew Day - Sunday, August 5, 2012
• Bottling Day - Sunday, September 2, 2012
• OG - 1.046
• FG - 1.014
• ABV -  4.2% (estimated)
• Notes - Almost 4 weeks in Primary; no secondary.  Very clear at bottling.

The Verdict:

• Wow... this one delivered as promised.  Not the super hoppy style I'm used to but a lighter, crisp, clean beer that should appeal to a wide variety of beer drinkers.  Worth repeating...

Batch #11 - T-Monkey Brown Ale (All-grain)

This brew is an Americanized version of a typical Brown Ale brewed in Northern England.  The specialty malts impart a toasty flavor and a mild nutty flavor.  This beer, while dark in color, is a low-bitter and easy drinking home brew with a slightly higher alcohol content than is UK counterpart.

Ingredients:

• 10 lbs. of Domestic 2-row Pale Malt
• 12 oz. Caramel/Crystal Malt 80L
• 4 oz. Chocolate Malt
• 4 oz. Special B Malt
• 1 oz. Cascade Hops (60 minutes)
• 1 oz. Fuggles Hops (2 minutes)
• 1 tbsp. PH 5.2 Mash Stabilizer
• 1 Whirfloc Tablet for clarification
• 1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient
• 1 pkg. London Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1028)
• 3.6 oz. Corn Sugar
• 8.5 Gallons of Water
• 20 lb. Bag of Ice

Process (for all-grain batch sparging):

1. Optional - Prepare a yeast starter at least 24 hours in advance of brew day.
2. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
3. Prepare your strike water by heating 14 quarts of water or 3.5 gallons ( or approximately 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  Aim for 169 degrees.
4. Add about 4 quarts of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
5. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water. 
6. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
7. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5.75 gallons of water (1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 170 degrees.
8. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
9. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.    Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 2-5 times until the runnings are free of debris and running relatively clear.
10. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
11. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
12. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6.5 gallons of beer or a measured pre-boil specific gravity of 1.054.  Ensure wort is cooled to obtain an accurate reading.
13. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
14. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Cascade hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
15. With 15 minutes left in the boil add Whirfloc tablet and wort chiller (to sanitize).
16. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water. 
17. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of Fuggles hops.
18. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
19. Take a specific gravity reading and record.
20. Estimated post-boil volume is 5.98 gallons.  Optional - add water to achieve target SG.
21. Transfer to fermentation carboy by siphon.  Strain if desired.
22. Optional - add water to achieve desired volume.
23. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
24. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 3 weeks).
25. Optional - Transfer to secondary fermentation carboy for clarifying and/or dry hopping.
26. Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 3.9 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch.  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.

Notes, Results and Lessons Learned:

• Brew Day - Sunday, June 24, 2012
• Bottling Day - Tuesday, July 17, 2012
• OG - 1.054
• FG - 1.010
• ABV -  5.8%
• Notes - Did a taste test prior to bottling and it was quite nice.  Looking forward to the end result.

The Verdict:

• Opened a bottle after 13 days of bottle conditioning.  Tasted very nice but still needs a little more time to carbonate.