Batch #20 - Kombucha Tea

This will be a pretty big departure from my normal brewing activity.  I've decided to try my hand at brewing Kombucha.

Ingredients:

• 3 1/2 quarts filtered water
  
• 1 cup white sugar (or organic evaporated sugar)
• 8 bags black tea (green tea, white tea, oolong tea, or a even mix of these make good kombucha.)
• 1-2 cups starter tea from last batch of kombucha or store-bought (unpasteurized, neutral-flavored) kombucha
• 1 SCOBY per fermentation jar

Optional flavoring bottling: 1 to 2 cups chopped fruit, 2 to 3 cups fruit juice, 1 to 2 tablespoons flavored tea (like hibiscus or Earl Grey), 1/4 cup honey, 2 to 4 tablespoons fresh herbs or spices.

• For this batch I am going to add 2 oz. of juice to each 12 oz. bottle. I am estimating that I will need about 20 oz.
• 1 gallon of Kombucha or 128 oz. divided by 12 oz. (each bottle) = about 10 bottles.
• 10 bottles at 2 oz. each = 20 oz.
• Bottles 1, 2 & 3 - Fresh squeezed orange juice & 1/4 teaspoon grated ginger
• Note: Tasted these after various days of carbonation and they were fantastic.
• Bottle 4 - 1/4 teaspoon grated ginger
• Note: This one was fair.  Not bad, just not a lot of flavor.
• Bottles 5, 6, 7 & 8 - Black cherry juice (R.W. Knudsen brand)
• Note: Opened bottle #6 on May 28th and the carbonation level was perfect.  This makes it 8 days in secondary for future reference.
• Bottle 9 - 2 oz. fresh squeezed orange juice
• Bottle 10 - Plain kombucha with 1/2 tsp. white table sugar for carbonation

Process:

1. Make the Tea Base: Bring the water to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in the sugar to dissolve. Drop in the tea and allow it to steep until the water has cooled to room temperature. You can speed up the cooling process by placing the pot in an ice bath in the sink.
2. Add the Starter Tea: Once the tea is cool, remove the tea bags. Stir in the starter tea. (The starter tea makes the liquid acidic, which prevents unfriendly bacteria from taking up residence in the first few days of fermentation.)
3. Transfer to Jar and Add the Scoby: Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon glass jar and gently slide the scoby into the jar with clean hands. Cover the mouth of the jar with an unbleached coffee filter and secure with a rubber band.
4. Ferment for 7 to 10 Days: Keep the jar at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, and where it won't get jostled. Ferment for 7 to 10 days, checking the kombucha and the scoby periodically.  It's not unusual for the scoby to float at the top, bottom, or even sideways. A new cream-colored layer of scoby should start forming on the surface of the kombucha within a few days. It usually attaches to the old scoby, but it's ok if they separate. You may also see brown stringy bits floating beneath the scoby, sediment collecting at the bottom, and bubbles collecting around the scoby. This is all normal and signs of healthy fermentation.  After seven days, begin tasting the kombucha daily by pouring a little out of the jar and into a cup. When it reaches a balance of sweetness and tartness that is pleasant to you, the kombucha is ready to bottle.  If using pH strips your 'buch will be ready (on the sweet side) at 3.1 or on the sour side at 2.7.
5. Remove the Scoby: Before proceeding, prepare and cool another pot of strong tea for your next batch of kombucha, as outlined above. With clean hands, gently lift the scoby out of the kombucha and set it on a clean plate. As you do, check it over and remove the bottom layer if the scoby is getting very thick.
6. Bottle the Finished Kombucha: Measure out your starter tea from this batch of kombucha and set it aside for the next batch. Pour the fermented kombucha (straining) into bottles using the small funnel, along with any juice, herbs, or fruit you may want to use as flavoring. Leave about a half inch of head room in each bottle.  In this case add 2 oz. of your fresh apple & ginger juice to each bottle.
7. Carbonate and Refrigerate the Finished Kombucha: Store the bottled kombucha at room-temperature out of direct sunlight and allow 1 to 3 days for the kombucha to carbonate. Until you get a feel for how quickly your kombucha carbonates, it's helpful to keep it in plastic bottles; the kombucha is carbonated when the bottles feel rock solid. Refrigerate to stop fermentation and carbonation, and then consume your kombucha within a month.
8. Make a Fresh Batch of Kombucha: Clean the jar being used for kombucha fermentation. Combine the starter tea from your last batch of kombucha with the fresh batch of sugary tea, and pour it into the fermentation jar. Slide the scoby on top, cover, and ferment for 7 to 10 days.

Notes:

• Brew day Saturday, May 10, 2014.
• After nearly 3 days I still do not see any signs of fermentation.  This may be my first brewing FAIL - Ugh!
• Possible causes:
• Dormant or dead SCOBY?  I refrigerated the SCOBY as soon as it arrived.  This may have killed it or put it in a dormant state.  I read refrigeration is not required.
• I used Star San to sanitize my jar.  Could this have killed the good bacteria?  Probably not as I made a small batch using the smaller SCOBY I received and did not use Star San but still no fermentation.
• Filtered water vs. distilled water?  Perhaps the chlorine in my filtered water killed the SCOBY?  I doubt it but I will try distilled next time to be safe.
• Note - At this point all signs seem to lead to a bad SCOBY.  On the off chance the SCOBY is just dormant I will let it continue for a week or so longer to see if anything changes.
• Wait a minute!  I may have jumped the gun on calling this batch a failure.  It appears a SCOBY is forming on the top of my tea. Stay tuned...
• Things are alive and well.  I have a healthy looking SCOBY forming on the top of my tea.  I tasted it on 5/19/2014 (9 days of fermentation) and it has a nice acidic taste.  I also tested the pH and it is coming in around 3.4 so I'm going to let it go for another day or so to get it in the 2.7 to 3.1 range.
• Bottled on 5/20/2014 after 10 days in primary fermentation.  Yield was (10) twelve oz. bottles.

Batch #19 - Ryan's Wheat Revenge (All-grain)

I've made this recipe several times and it has turned out well.  It's a take-off on this recipe from Midwest Supplies.  It is described as "a crisp American-style Wheat beer perfect for a summer day refreshment. Of course, it's still refreshing any time of the year while doing almost anything! Clean and refreshing which finishes crisp with minimal esters - free from German-style bubble-gum or clove flavors and aromas."

Ingredients:

5 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt

4 lbs. Wheat Malt

8 oz. Cara-Pils/Dextrine

8 oz. CaraVienne

8 oz. Rice Hulls (to help establish the grain bed since wheat tends to be more sticky that 2-Row, etc.)

1 oz. Sterling Hops (45 minute boil)

1 oz. Palisade Hops (last 2 minutes of boil)

1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient

1 tablespoon  5.2 pH mash stabilizer

1 pkg. Safbrew WB-06 Dry Wheat BeerYeast

9 gallons of drinking water (added .5 gallon to compensate for the added rice hulls)

Process:

Collecting first runnings.

1. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
2. Prepare your strike water by heating 13 quarts of water or 3.25 gallons (1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  I heated the water to 169 degrees and this seemed to hit the target for mashing.
3. Add about 4 quarts of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
4. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water.  Mash temp maintained about 153 degree throughout the hour.
5. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add pH stabilizer and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
6. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5 gallons of water to a temperature of 170 degrees.
7. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
8. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.  Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 2-5 times until the runnings are free of debris and running relatively clear.
9. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
10. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain be as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
11. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6.5 - 7 gallons of beer or a measured pre-boil specific gravity of 1.048.
12. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
13. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Sterling hops for bittering and boil for 45 minutes.
14. Add the wort chiller to the boil during the last 15 minutes to sterilize.
15. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water.
16. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of remaining Palisade hops.
17. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
18. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target SG is approximately 1.048 (according to BrewSmith software).
19. Estimated post-boil volume is 5.98 gallons.  Optional - add water to achieve target SG.
20. Transfer to fermentation carboy.  I strained this batch to reduce trub.  Make sure you have the volume you are aiming for and if it is off then consider adding top-off water.
21. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
22. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings.
23. Keg.

Notes:

• Brew Day - March 30, 2014
• Kegging Day - April 20, 2014 (3 weeks in primary)
• OG - 1.045
• FG - 1.010
• ABV - 4.6%
• Notes:
• Fermentation did not go as crazy as some of the batches in the past but fermentation completed.

The Verdict:

• Turned out as expected although I had to crank up the CO2 on my keg.

Batch #18 - Power Pack Porter (All-Grain)

With the weather turning colder I am going to try my hand at a porter.  I'm using a recipe from Midwest Supplies.

Ingredients:
12 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
10 oz. Black Patent Malt
12 oz. Chocolate Malt
8 oz. Caramel Malt (120L)
1.5 oz. Tettnang (60 minutes)
1 oz. Willamette (2 minutes)
1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient
1 Whirfloc tablet
1 tbsp 5.2 pH mash stabilizer
1 pkg. Safale S-04 dry yeast
9.5 gallons of drinking water
20 lbs. ice (for chilling wort)

 Process:

1. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
2. Prepare your strike water by heating about 17.5 quarts of water or roughly 4.5 gallons (about 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  Aim for 169 degrees.
3. Add about 4 quarts (1 gallon) of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
4. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water.
5. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add 1 tablespoon of pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
6. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5 gallons of water to a temperature of 170 degrees.
7. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test by removing a small sample of wort from your mash tun and adding a drop or two of iodine.  If the iodine turns black or purple you starch conversion has not fully taken place and you need to mash a little longer.  If the iodine color remains unchanged conversion has completed.  Alternatively, you can simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
8. Perform vorlauf (recirculation) by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.  Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 5 or more times until the runnings are free of grain debris and running relatively clear.
9. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
10. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
11. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6.5 to 7 gallons of beer. The reason for this amount is that boil-off will account for approximately 1.5 gallons of liquid per hour.
12. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
13. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1.5 oz. of Tettnang hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
14. With 15 minutes left in the boil add: Whirfloc tablet & wort chiller to the boil to sterilize.
15. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water.
16. During the last 2 minutes of the boil add 1 oz. of Willamette hops.
17. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
18. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target SG is approximately 1.067.
19. Estimated post-boil volume is 6 gallons.
20. Transfer to fermentation carboy.  Strain if desired.
21. Optional - add boiled water to achieve desired volume.
22. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
23. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 3 weeks).
24. Optional - Cold crash beer for 1 week to further clarify.
25. Keg or bottle by preparing priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 4 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch (remove from heat).  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.

Fermentation going crazy!

Schedule:

• Brew Day - November 18, 2013
• Cold Crash Day - Omitted.
• Kegging Day - December 25, 2013
• Tasting Day - TBD
• Original Gravity - 1.071 (1.067 was target)
• Final Gravity - 1.020
• Alcohol by Volume (ABV) - 6.9%

Notes:

• Had to use a smaller carboy for this since my 6.5 gallon one was in use for batch #17.  This surely contributes to overflow during fermentation.

The Verdict:

• I was super pleased with this one.  Porters are not normally my favorite style but this one turned out really nice.  It had lots of coffee and chocolate notes - a definite repeat when the weather turns cold again.

It passed the Gina test... :-)

Batch #17 - Citra SMaSH IPA (All-grain)

For this batch I am going to try a technique I've been reading about called SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop).  It is the ultimate in simplicity and a good way to learn about the individual ingredients that make up the beer.  With only one type of malted barley and a single variety of hop being utilized I should be able to really taste what each adds to the beer.  This actually would have been a really good batch to start with when I moved to all-grain.  In any case, I think it will be an interesting brew and a good learning experience.

Ingredients:

13 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt

1 oz. Citra Hops (60 minutes)

1 oz. Citra Hops (15 minutes)

1 oz. Citra Hops (Dry Hopping)

1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient

1 Whirfloc tablet

1 tbsp 5.2 pH mash stabilizer

1 pkg. American Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1056)

9 gallons of drinking water

20 lbs. ice (for chilling wort)

Process:

1. Optional - Prepare a yeast starter at least 24 hours in advance of brew day.
2. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
3. Prepare your strike water by heating about 16.25 quarts of water or 4 gallons (about 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  Aim for 169 degrees.
4. Add about 4 quarts (1 gallon) of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
5. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water.
6. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add 1 tablespoon of pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
7. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5 gallons of water to a temperature of 170 degrees.
8. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test by removing a small sample of wort from your mash tun and adding a drop or two of iodine.  If the iodine turns black or purple you starch conversion has not fully taken place and you need to mash a little longer.  If the iodine color remains unchanged conversion has completed.  Alternatively, you can simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
9. Perform vorlauf (recirculation) by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.  Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 5 or more times until the runnings are free of grain debris and running relatively clear.
10. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
11. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
12. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 6.5 to 7 gallons of beer.  The reason for this amount is that boil-off will account for approximately 1.5 gallons of liquid per hour.
13. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
14. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Citra hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
15. With 15 minutes left in the boil add: Whirfloc tablet, 1 oz. of Citra hops & wort chiller to the boil to sterilize.
16. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water.
17. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
18. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target SG is approximately 1.068.
19. Estimated post-boil volume is 6 gallons.
20. Transfer to fermentation carboy.  Strain if desired.
21. Optional - add boiled water to achieve desired volume.
22. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
23. Attach blow-off tube (or airlock) and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 3 weeks).
24. After 2 weeks of fermentation, add 1 oz. of Citra hops for the dry hopping process.  Let these hops age in the primary fermenter for 7-10 days.
25. Optional - Cold crash beer for 1 week to further clarify.
26. Keg.
27. Optional (for bottling only) - Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 4 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch (remove from heat).  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.

Schedule:

Brew Day - November 1, 2013

Original Gravity - 1.062

Dry Hop Day - November 15, 2013 (18 days)
Cold Crash Day - Omitted

Kegging Day - December 3, 2013 (33 days in Primary)

Tasting Day - December 5, 2013 (Planned)

Original Gravity - 1.062

Final Gravity - 1.010

Alcohol by Volume (ABV) - 6.8%

Notes:

• Made a yeast starter for this batch.
• My timer stopped about half way through so boil times had to be estimated.  I think I was within 5 minutes.
• I ended up with about 7.5 gallons of wort in the boil so my OG was lower than anticipated.  1.062 actual compared to 1.068 estimated.
• Didn't stir mash on second vorlauf.  Probably not a big deal.
• Ugh!  Fermentation ended up going crazy and bubbled out of the top of the airlock.  I wish I had taken a picture but I was too concerned with cleaning up the mess and switching over to a blow-off tube.  Note to self... just use a blow-off tube every time.  I hope this batch didn't get infected.  I am guessing with so much fermentation left it will be OK.
• Getting a "banana" smell coming from the airlock.  Not abnormal but I don't remember it being this strong.
• Skipped cold crashing due to being out-of-town and refrigerator not being ready.
• Dry hopped for 18 days - about a week longer than I wanted. 

The Verdict:

• This one turned out pretty much as expected.  The simplicity allowed me to understand what the single malt and single hop contributed to the beer but it was somewhat bland.  I think I prefer the complexity of multiple grains and hops.

Batch #16 - Andy's American IPA (All-Grain)

Ingredients:

10 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt

12 oz. Cara 8/Caramel Pils

8 oz. Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L

1 oz. Chinook Hops (60 minutes)

1 oz. Chinook Hops (15 minutes)

1 oz. Cascade Hops (2 minutes)

1 oz. Citra Hops (Dry Hopping)

1/2 tsp. Yeast Nutrient

1 Whirfloc tablet

1 tbsp 5.2 pH mash stabilizer

1 pkg. American Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1056)

8.5 gallons of drinking water

20 lbs. ice (for chilling wort)

Process:

1. Optional - Prepare a yeast starter at least 24 hours in advance of brew day.
2. Clean and sanitize all equipment that will come in contact with your beer.
3. Prepare your strike water by heating about 14.5 quarts of water or 3.5 gallons (about 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain) to a temperature of 162-170 degrees.  Aim for 169 degrees.
4. Add about 4 quarts of your strike water to the mash tun to heat it up and begin adding your crushed grains and the remaining strike water.  Stir thoroughly to avoid dry pockets (dough balls).
5. Once the mixture is thoroughly combined check the temperature to ensure it is approximately 152-154 degrees.  If not, adjust by adding hot or cold water.
6. Once your mash is at the proper temperature add 1 tablespoon of pH stabilizer, stir and close the mash tun and let steep for 60 minutes.
7. Prepare your sparge water by heating 5 gallons of water to a temperature of 170 degrees.
8. Optional - check for starch conversion by performing an iodine test or simply taste the mixture.  If conversion has taken place the mixture will taste sweet.
9. Perform vorlauf by slowly collecting the first runnings of your wort and adding them back to mash tun.    Take care to not let grain bed collapse by draining too quickly or dumping first runnings back in the mash tun with too much force.  Repeat this step 5 or more times until the runnings are free of grain debris and running relatively clear.
10. Collect your first runnings into your brew pot by allowing all of the wort in your mash tun to slowly drain out.  Take your time and be careful to not let your grain bed collapse.
11. After your mash tun has drained close the valve and add all of your sparge water to the tun and stir.  Do not worry about disturbing the grain bed as you are going to create a whole new grain bed for the second runnings.
12. Repeat Step 9 above (vorlauf) and collect enough wort until you have about 7 gallons of beer.
13. Return your brew kettle to burner and bring wort to a vigorous boil.
14. As soon as the beer begins to boil add 1 oz. of Chinook hops for bittering and boil for 60 minutes.
15. With 15 minutes left in the boil add: Whirfloc tablet, 1 oz. of Chinook hops & wort chiller to the boil to sterilize.
16. During last 10 minutes of boil add 1/2 tsp. of yeast nutrient dissolved in small amount of warm water.
17. With 2 minutes left in the boil add 1 oz. of Cascade hops.
18. Terminate boil and chill to fermentation temperature of approximately 70 degrees.
19. Take a specific gravity reading and record.  Target SG is approximately 1.059.
20. Estimated post-boil volume is 6 gallons.
21. Transfer to fermentation carboy.  Strain if desired.
22. Optional - add boiled water to achieve desired volume.
23. Pitch yeast and aerate well using pure oxygen.
24. Attach blow-off tube and ferment until complete according to hydrometer readings (at least 3 weeks).
25. After 2 weeks of fermentation, add 1 oz. of Citra hops for the dry hopping process.  Let these hops age in the primary fermenter for 7-10 days.
26. Optional (for bottling only) - Prepare priming sugar by boiling 2 cups of drinking water and add 4 oz. of priming sugar.  Be careful not to scorch.  Boil for 5 minutes and add to bottling bucket.  Add wort, stir gently for 1 minute and bottle.

Schedule:

• Brew Day - Sunday, June 30, 2013
• Dry Hop Day - Sunday, July 21, 2013
• Kegging Day - Sunday, July 28, 2013
• Tasting Day - Monday, August 29, 2013
• Original Gravity - 1.058
• Final Gravity - 1.010
• Alcohol by Volume (ABV) - 6.3%

Notes:

• Omitted the yeast starter since the original gravity was relatively low at 1.058.
• Volume of wort transferred into carboy for fermentation was just under 5 gallons.
• Had trouble with the screw on that regulator that adjusts the PSI but a little WD40 on a Q-tip around he screw did the trick.
• Had trouble with the "Out" poppet and the large O-ring leaking.  I tried to re-seat them several times but didn't have any luck so I purchased a set of new o-rings, keg lube and a universal poppet.  That seems to have done the trick.  I hope my beer wasn't exposed to too much oxygen during this time.

The Verdict:

• Overall, I would give it a B-.  I struggled a little bit with getting it carbonated at first as noted above and believe this may have contributed to a little oxidation but the beer still turned out nice.
• Interestingly, it doesn't seem to have the same hop character that the same recipe(batch #10) produced when I bottled the beer.
• Still worthy of a repeat performance.